Classic Mini Restoration Guide

 

Rover Mini Full Restoration  Job

 

I created this blog out of my own interest and passion !.. and for any Classic Mini enthusiast looking to buy, restore or get to know and understand how this Little but very clever old British Icon is put together, the different models and variations available. It was so far ahead in its days in design standards that it has stood the test of time and is still very popular today.

 I must admit I have been in the motor vehicle trade for over 30 years and have always highly regarded the Mini but found this a pain to work on compared with the conventional rear wheel drive layout. The tight configuration of the Sub-frames with a transverse engine was a genius invention for this vehicle back in the early days 1959/60's  allowing  80% of the floor pan space for  passengers and luggage.

I have worked on many old classics in the past but not this one.. I decided this was going to be my new Classic Mini Project. I was very keen to get started and I kind of knew from experience in my previous job as an Automobile Engineer here in the U.K.. which model to go for, I chose the 1992 Rover Mini Cooper Spi model over the MPI and Carburettor models, purely for reliability! No tuning problems providing you get a good one.

• Classic Mini Buyers Guide
• Restoration Guide 
  
• Service maintenance guide to keep your Mini Healthy 

Before rushing out and buying an old Mini there are certain points and factors which need to be understood.

I have come across plenty of people who have bought a an Old Classic Car on the spur of the minuet without realising what's involved, this can be fun but it can also be both physically, mentally and financially draining if you get it wrong, leading you to give up and abandon the project all together.

To start off with you have a various amount of models but also anniversary celebration models which are limited additions and will cost you more money, the deciding factor being your budget  you can easily pick up an Ebay Project for as little as £800 ranging up to £3000. All the parts are relatively cheap to buy !
Its time and labour that can be costly if your paying to have a restoration job but that's not what this blog is about.

The maintenance is also very low once you have your Mini restored to a good standard so stick around as I go through the whole process step by step.

Mk1 and Mk2  early 1960.s  these are the most prestigious today and can cost anything up to 35k for a genuine one, (Take a visit to Swanley Mini Centre ) Mini cooper S being the ultimate model in my opinion. Here's a complete history.

Buying a classic mini can be great fun but you do not want to end up with a rust bucket, mechanically these cars will last a life time if serviced correctly, the engine block and cylinder head is made from cast Iron which means it is very strong and robust apart from the common problem with the usual top end wear - tappet noise. This is an easy fix compared with the rust/corrosion these Mini 's suffer.
The engines can last up to 100k before they become a little smokey but  if serviced and driven correctly will last a considerable length of time but obviously the lower the mileage the better but depending on your ability every component-part is also easily available from Mini specialists like "Mini Spares" or "Mini sport "etc.

   Off Side front Wing has been cut out.

What to look for when Buying a Classic Mini 

Full Restoration Guide Click Here 

Body work. 

 Rust is the main problem all minis regardless of model suffer!..(the earlier models were better around 1970's) its when it becomes structural which can be serious, the deciding factor of how far you can go without burning a hole in your wallet. My advise is to buy one that has an M.O.T (equivalent safety Test if your in different country) or has just run out, this way you are less likely to have structural problems but I cannot guarantee this, but again all body panels are easily available.
 

Gear Box Final Drive

The gearbox final drive is what you need to be aware of mainly crunching noise or jumping out of gear while in motion or difficult to engage or disengage gear can be signs of excessive wear indicating the synchromesh  hub or even a bent folk. This would be an expensive  lengthy job but still fixable.
Most will have a low whirring sound specially in 1st and 2nd gear, this is acceptable and normal for a Mini with around  60k miles and up.

Road Test

If you can road test the Vehicle watch out for signs of wandering or rumbling from the suspension this can indicate accident damage, bent suspension arms.
Rumbling Noise will indicate worn out CV Joints (Constant Velocity Joints) or wheel bearings.
Any Clutch slipping will be easily apparent as the vehicle will fail to accelerate as the engine speed increases.
Alternative test would be to leave the hand brake on and bring the clutch pedal up real slow you will feel Clutch Slip. You should be able to engage gear without any resistance

Engine

 This is usually the least of your worries as the engines will usually far out last the vehicle but excessive wear can lead to trouble, listen out for light tappet noise this is acceptable. If it sounds like a sewing machine there is likely to be other deeper problems like rocker shaft, Camshaft, camshaft followers, Push rods or even Timing Chain wear on High mileage.

Start the engine from cold, slight clear smoke especially when weather is cold is normal condensation. Any noise is usually apparent, listen out for any knocking or rumbling from the engine this is likely to be worn out crank shaft bearings! Piston slap.. also a knocking noise indicating severe engine wear and a major overhaul here.

Watch out for any creamy mayonnaise looking substance when removing the rocker cover cap and within the Engine Oil,  this can be signs of  a blown head gasket confirmation followed by white smoke from the exhaust.

Once warmed up the engine should be running smoothly without smoke bellowing out from the exhaust. Any bluish-smoke will indicate worn out piston rings or cylinder bore wear in severe cases.

The following test as below using an Compression Tester will confirm how healthy your engine is likely to be.

This Compression Tester is a great tool for any Classic Mini enthusiast.

I've been doing this for many years now.! This is the first test that's needed to assess the condition of an engine.

This tool is of great value the make is well known and you do not have to spend a fortune on compression testers as they are used so infrequently. This will test the Compression in both Bar/ Psi your looking for around 150 psi minimum on all four cylinders and around 10% in balance is acceptable.
Note: warm up engine before compression test.


I bought this Mini from a lady owner just out of  M.O.T the first test was  a compression test.
The engine was fine firing on all 4 cylinders great even compression around 170 psi on each cylinder, with very little variance indicating a good balance between each cylinder.
Just the usual worn tappet noise. It looked like a wreck but even the clutch and gearbox was fine luckily it drove well with no slipping or crunching.

My Classic Mini Project 13i spi model - some will Knock this model but don't be fooled there still  highly sought after. Click here to see finished Project.

The above restoration video will show before and after genuine classic mini project.
 Thanks for looking !